Revitalisation Strategies for Indonesian Stitch-resist Dyeing

The textile-making custom in Indonesia has produced a myriad of outstanding cloths. One of the traditional Indonesian techniques is stitch-resist dyeing which has been practised in different regions. The commercialisation of craft goods, through the effects of globalisation, has transformed how Indonesian craft makers practice the stitch-resist dyeing technique over the past decades. The craft makers also face the challenge of producing high uniformity of cloths in significant numbers, in the aftermath of the Indonesian government policy of encouraging the use of traditional textiles as corporate wear. This study aims to analyse the commercialisation effects on the stitch-resist dyeing practice in order to formulate appropriate revitalisation strategies for sustaining the tradition. This mixed-method research was carried out by collecting primary data from a survey in three of the textile-making locations (Palembang, Banjarmasin, and Yogyakarta) and laboratory experimentation, alongside analysing relevant secondary data.
Overall, there are three consequences from commercialisation in the Indonesian stitch-resist dyeing practices: (i) a transformation of cloth design, by simplifying the design or adopting other techniques; (ii) an inconsistent and poor quality pattern, driven by market needs; (iii) a low craft makers’ welfare in terms of their income level and workshop facilities. The increasing market and production level were not supported by upgraded facilities, which could harm the ecology in the long term. This study argues that stitch-resist dyeing practices require appropriate technology and organisation for sustaining the culture, improving the pattern quality and innovation. Equipment on individual and communal level were suggested based on the experiment result. For the communal work, the practice is advised to utilise an advanced and eco-friendly technology in a co-working space operated by a worker cooperative. The implementation of suggested revitalisation strategies can be incremental and partial, according to the craft makers’ capabilities.