Food culture in the Soconusco Region in Chiapas Mexico

The diverse processes that shape agri-food systems worldwide, such as urbanisation, industrial agriculture and globalisation are creating challenges, pressures and increasing vulnerabilities in rural communities. Therefore, an understanding of the complex relationships between small-scale farmers and the external forces that shape their agri-food systems is essential. The aim of this research is to examine the effects of socio-economic forces on small scale farming systems in Mexico when involved in alternative food networks. To achieve this, the culinary practices and knowledge were explored focused on the analysis of food production, preparation, distribution and consumption practices in households. In addition, the culinary preferences of consumers in a farmers market and its impacts on shifts on culinary practices in small scale farming system were analysed.
The main methodology consisted of photo voice, accompanied by semi-structured interviews, workshops, participant observation in the rural community, and structured interviews with consumers.
The research revealed that female participants voiced the importance of the ‘milpa’, coffee groves, forest, homegardens as sources of the main food ingredients to prepare daily and special food for the households and regional alternative food network. These culinary practices are rooted in their biocultural ‘mam’ identity, and a reflection of the Mesoamerican diet. The natural foods based on ‘caldos’ ‘recaditos’ and ‘tamales’ prepared with ‘verduras’ are bio-cultural markers of communities’ identities and their territory.
Finally, the analysis of consumers preferences demonstrates the role of the farmers market in positioning local, ‘natural’ food in the region. The research evidences the ability of women, seen as agents of culinary knowledge, to create an alternative movement of consumption practices in the Soconusco region.